Most of the engine noise came from the air intakes on both sides of the hatch, and below the deck were no sound insulation at all.
First I used used expanding Poly Urethane foam to seal off any openings & cracks between the underside of the deck and the wooden parts off the engine room. Then I put on self-adhesive sound insulation mats on the underside of the deck.
A plywood board where fitted and covered on both sides with sound insulation mats, before it was mounted. See the drawing to the left - the plywood board functions as a sound trap, preventing the sound to pass directly up into the air inlets.
Here is the result of the soundproofing of the deck an air inlets.
Note that all exposed wood/plywood is covered with mats. Aluminium duct tape is used to seal up the joints.
Poly Urethane foam to seal where also used to seal up any hole or bushing in the engine room, except the opening in the bottom where the exhaust hose is running.
The final sound leakage was under the engine covers on each side, this was solved with a rubber door weather stripping fastened to the "doorsill" on the flooring.
It's now hard to hear if the engine is running or not!
The first autumn, when the filter cartridge in the water separation unit was about the be exchanged, I ran into a tiny problem; In order to avoid condensation (and diesel animals), I had filled up the fuel tank (310l), and the water separation filter was placed lower than the top of the fuel tank, and there was no fuel stop cock...............
Apparently a fuel stop cock is no longer mandatory - (must be another of those EU directives)
Eventually, I exchanged the filter cartridge, but obviously there were quite a lot of diesel spilling.
I got hold of a cock from local plumbing shop and mounted it with Teflon tape.
The original water separation filter had no possibility to inspect if there were water or diesel animals present - the bottom of the separation unit were made out of metal!! This was exchanged with a unit with a glass bottom.
It can be very useful to check out the charging current when the engine is running, (some charging control units can go bananas from time to time!) or to know how much is going out of the battery bank, and one tool for this is an ampere meter. I didn't want to route cables capable of 60-80 amps through an instrument in the instrument table so I chose an ampere meter from Wema System AS with a ring bobbin sensor.
The hole in the panel was made by first drilling a ring of holes, and the rest was milled of with a Dremel.
The yellow charging indicator were relocated, because it was placed where the meter was supposed to go.
The first test of the ampere meter showed that with all electric consumers turned off and no charging on, the meter indicated +16 Ampere, so I contacted Wema, and they sent a new sensor.
This sensor showed +20 Ampere! New call to Wema, and they could tell if I removed a rubber seal on the back of the instrument I could calibrate the sensor. Wouldn't it be nice if this was documented in the instructions?
Here is the ring bobbin sensor connected to the + terminal of one of the consumption batteries. The red lead is the shore powered charger, in order to get the proper reading when his charger is in use.
The little black box is the temperature sensor for the shore powered charger.
As the years pass by I need more and more light, and using a handheld lamp with a dangling power cord in an engine compartment, is not to be recommended - especially when the engine is running.
A simple and inexpensive lamp with florescence tube was acquired at Biltema and fitted in the engine compartment.
The silvery sound insulation mats scatters the light into every little crack and cranny.
Finally a micro switch was mounted in the upper left corner of the door casing of the hatch for the engine compartment.
The lamp was 10 years later exchanged with a LED lamp.
The shore power charger and the inverter is mounted behind the cushions in the settee on the SB side.
The original shore power outlet was moved from the instrument panel to the side of the settee, where it is more practical, for instance for the little pig (heater) that works as an anti-condensation unit during the winter.
The 220V outlet in the instrument panel is now reserved for the inverter.
One of my neighbours in the harbour started up his engine after a winter in the water ( bubble harbour, as it freezes over in winter) put it in gear and experienced a strong vibration from the engine. He had a diver go down and had a look at it - the propeller had been eaten up by galvanic corrosion. Could be a faulty grounding in his or other boats nearby, so the decision was made: get isolated!
There are two choices; an isolation transformer or a galvanic separator, the choice fell upon a 30Amp galvanic separator from Sterling Power Products due to price and ease of installation. An Isolation transformer is the best choice, and coupled with different primary circuits 110/230V would make it more versatile around the world.