An aft windlass is a must for the Scandinavian natural harbours and my back!
Here is the winch itself on the back of the stern. Two small aluminium beams distributes the load on the stern, but the stern is rather thin, and I plan to reinforce the stern with some GRP before I put back the winch this spring.
I had to take the winch with me back home because, as the picture shows the supplier: Industri Lambertseter had a bad choice in materials!
One of the most important aspects with the installation is to make sure that the anchor chain has a long enough fall down into the chain box.
The launch/retrieve bracket is placed and adjusted to avoid that the anchor will not catch the hull when it is pulled in.
The box for the anchor chain is constructed of plywood reinforced with glass fibre and polyester. It is made as large as possible, and still make it through the inspection hatch in the aft cabin.
The box has a drainage that is lead through a hose and through the hull just above the the waterline.
The end of the chain is connected to bolt fitted trough the box and the hull.
This bracket was made while waiting for a new crew in harbour on west coast of Sweden.
The bracket is made out of two pieces of plywood, glued together with poly-urethane glue.
The outboard (with its two build-in clamps) worked nicely as a working bench with vice. The bracket is mounted with through bolts and the holes are sealed with Sikaflex.
The placement put the outboard out of the way during sailing, and I can easily stand safely on the aft platform when handling the outboard.
Actually, the bracket works fine for changing oil and flushing the outboard with fresh water when preparing it for the winter. Notice the through bolt with an eyelet that is used for the security line, and also the small piece of teak that protects the hull.
A nice breeze, close hauled, and a some waves - then comes the spray and soon the saltwater find the way along the cabin roof, along the hatch garage and shoots through the opening for the halyards below the spray hood, into the cockpit and sometimes even through the hatch and below deck.
The solution; find a suitable block of teak and start to whittle... ( but I must admit it goes much faster using an electric hacksaw with adjustable cutting angle)
In the end drill holes for the halyards ( add a couple of millimetres on the diameter of the ropes and they will be easy to pull)
The block is fastened with screws through the aluminium profile and with Sikaflex against the GRP.
The teak is not treated and gets soon the right grey patina. Additional sealing with white silicone or Sikalflex were performed in front of the spray hood, and in fact the whole cover over the hatch garage had to be sealed, see sealing the hatch
Opening or closing a slippery Plexiglas hatch with no handle and wet hands is not easy!
The handle is made out of a teak block ( plus some planing, milling and sanding) and mounted with screws through the hatch. Clear silicone were used on contact surface give a nice look and to prevent water collection or seeping
Take care that the hole for the screw in the teak has the right dimension or else the block will split. ( No - my block didn't split!)
Correct dimensions on the handle is important to avoid squeezing your fingers between the handle and the bottom of the hatch garage or between the handle and the vertical part of the Plexiglas hatch.
The shaping of a hollow grip were also selected to avoid the squeezing.
Modern boats should not be sailed with a wet railing, as this will cause too much leeway and less boat speed. The inclinometer can be useful for a quick check of the listing, and furnished with red marks even the kids can tell you when it is too much!
The choice fell on Silva, and the instrument was mounted according with the instructions with stainless steel screws and O-rings to avoid the tension and possible cracking due to temperature changes!
Well the inclinometer kept its oil for about 4 years before it leaked out! Defect in fabrication Silva?
The red marks are small pieces of red electrical tape.
In addition to making a sleeve for the halyards, I had to seal the cover over the hatch garage in order to avoid water entering into the groove on both side of the hatch and then into the cockpit.
The groove around the complete cover were sealed with white silicone, and especially below the runner for the main sheet (in the middle of the picture).
Styrofoam blocks were shaped and fitted in front of the spray hood aluminium profile and sealed up with Sikaflex. An extra piece of aluminium profile were also fitted to prevent spray from entering.
The end grain of the teak plank on both side of the hatch had to be sealed off or else water will be drawn through the whole plank and into the cockpit.