Örnsköldsvik-Trysunda
Sailing out Örnsköldsvikfjorden we were sitting in the cockpit having lunch in the nice sunny weather, but a bit further out the sea fog came rolling in. Even the windmills got caught in the fog. Just before arriving at Trysundaön, the fog started to lift, and you could actually see the fog rolling away between the island.
Of course we have to send this postcard picture of the famous Trysunda, pictures of this harbour can be found in all the tourist information booklets about Höga Kusten.
From the pilot's mountain (Lotsberget).
The rookie sailor's corner
Man, am I sooo tired after the long walk up to this mountain top! Nice to get a rest!
Trysunda-Baggviken
Baggviken is one of the must see on the High Coast. It's a natural harbour, but there are jetties, toilets, garbage bins and fully equipped picnic areas with tables, chairs and grill and a sauna and of course a harbour fee!
There are berries, in the rich under-growth of the pine forest, but the nicest part is the hot brownies with wild strawberries and blueberries, which does not grow like that! We walked trough the forest to a lake, which previously was part of the sea, and saw beaver's lodges and traces of deer. Friendly people everywhere, always prepared for a nice chat about harbours and the weather.
Mist is forming over the water as cold air is flowing down from the higher regions of this island. Mjältön is the highest island in Sweden with 236m.
Close to one of the beaver's lodges, we found 20m tall trees with a diameter of 30-40cm felled by beavers.
Baggviken-Bönhamn
We first went to Ulvön, 3nm away, to do some shopping and later on we were sailing leisurely among the islands, and as we did not find another natural harbour close by, we ended up in yet another picturesque fishing village on the High Coast.
We were sailing in 2-3 knots today in search of an undisturbed natural harbour, but the couple of bays we visited were infected by new summer cottages, that looked more like houses. On the way we saw this pebble field, that clearly shows the old shorelines from thousands of years ago as the land is rising.
The rookie sailor's corner
Well, I've found someone else to take care of me, her name is Malin. So I guess it is goodbye to that rocking boat!
One can actually sense that the ground is pushing itself upwards looking at one of the islands we passed.
The weather at Lustholmen was cloudy and rainy. In sunny weather this must be a very pictures place.
A neighbour boat has brought a cat a long and the owner, took the cat on a walk (with lead!). Our little rooky freaked out!
The harbour is managed by the SSK (Sundsvall Sailing Society) and sports a club house (on the top of the island), service buildings, cabins for rent, sand beach, volleyball court, grill areas and even a floating party tent ( to the left on the picture)
Lustholmen-Sundsvall
Sundsvall is a must-see city along the coasts. Again, like the rest, the city is not even 400 years old.
The next day the weather did not improve. Cloudy, rainy, cold. It seems, August is no summer month! Perfect time for enjoying lovely pastry at a local "konditori" in Sundsvall.
In its history the city has been burned down and rebuild multiple times, the last time in 1888. That was, when it was decided to finally build in stone. Obviously to the visitor these stone buildings lasted and the city centre is quiet impressive for such a small place, and for some reason called the stone city.
Sundsvall-Lill Lubban
From Sundsvall we continued our trip to Lill Lubban, a picturesque small island overgrown by forest, the ground cushioned with moss, blueberry plants and mushrooms. A 1km forest track leads around the island, passing the self-service sauna. The SXK is responsible for this harbour.
Had to look twice when passing this "house" hanging in the air. Some further investigation revealed that it was a refurbished crane!
The rookie sailor's corner
And I just say this once: No more paparazzi pictures of me!
Lill Lubban-Mellanfjärd
Next to the guest harbour in Mellanfjärd is a hotel and a theatre. The theatre was showing a performance the evening we were there. Around the corner is a fish shop. Unfortunately it was already closed when we finally found it. The opening times were 11:00-18:00 and it was highly recommended to us.
Mellanfjärd-Hudiksvall
The harbour at Hudiksvall is quite big, the guests are confined to the outmost stage (to the right in the picture). We took a stroll around the city for an ice cream and dinner at the local country restaurant.
Some of the old storage buildings along the channels are kept, but the area is not used actively.
We found a simple Swedish party boat in the harbour - and looking a bit further was a similar one, but it had a terrace on top!
Hudiksvall-Kråkön
Just after leaving the harbour in sun, the fog caught up with us, but cleared before we tucked in behind Kråkskär to the tiny fishing village at Kråkön. Well, it used to be, but we did not see any fishermen. People are using the buildings as summer houses.
The tiny floating stage only has room for a couple boats, but across from the entrance to the harbour there is a natural harbour. ( We noticed it the next day as we didn't see it when we arrived in the fog)
By the edge of the forest lies the Kråkön chapel from 1763, on the left hand side of the door hangs a 'small' key, if you want to visit it! The church has a lovely old wooden floor. It is just one single room and worth seeing.
Kråkön-Storjungfrun
First motored a couple of hours through the fog, when there was enough wind we started to sail. This east mark we spotted only ten meters away! Luckily we have a chart plotter. However, what was not so nice: some boats passed 50m from us without radar reflectors. We couldn't really see them in the fog, but we heard them. We got a very faint intermittent echo on our radar less than a couple 100m away. Even flying seagulls and buoys were clearer on our radar! The fog didn't lift until we were in the harbour at Storjungfrun. And then it was warm and sunny!
Storajungfruen is a an island made of rocks, piled up by the moving ice during the last (or at the end?) ice-age. However: even on rocks a lush forest can grow.; and just next to it you had a runway of rocks.
Storjungfrun-Granskär
Granskär is the local sailing club's and SXK's harbour at the island of Granö, and close by is another harbour called Kullerharen. There are electricity on the quays, sauna, sea water showers and a club house. The sauna was heated up and - as custom in Sweden - women and men enjoyed it separately: first the women, then the men. When we arrived, the harbour was nearly full. The next day however school started again in Sweden. Therefore most of the boats left at the evening or early next morning.
Granskär-Ängskärsklubb
Beautiful sailing today, close-hauled out passed Björn lighthouse, then bearing away a bit southwards. Wind up to 25 knots, but the sea was a bit choppy - one rarely get the long ocean waves in the Baltic. Luckily the first mate took a pill against seasickness this morning - otherwise it would have been not a good day for her.
The harbour master welcomed us at the quay and informed us that we were the first Norwegian boat there in 3 years! There were not many guest places in this harbour and we had some swell of the sea coming in. We walked the road through the forest for about 1.2 km, to a camping site with a restaurant and a small shop.
Trying to pass the Björn lighthouse!
The whole peninsula of Ängskär is a nature reserve, with dense forest and stony shorelines.