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To fix the leaks, the screw holes had to be localized by spotting the repaired caulking. (see above)

Drill out the hole to prepare to fill the hole in the deck with epoxy. (see right)

Finish off with new caulking.

When the teak deck was mounted, the shipyard drilled holes through the teak an into the GRP of the deck and put in screws to keep the teak deck in position. This was done during the process of gluing it down. These screws were later removed and filled up with caulking. Some of these holes started to leak into the interior of the boat.

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Copyright welkin.no

Oops! A deck plank has come loose! Clean the seam!

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Tape it up and fill it with epoxy and screw it down! Remember to fill the screw holes with epoxy.

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Finish off with caulking and a bit of sanding (80 grit)

caulking the deck

After 18 years the Sikaflex caulking decided to melt into tar!

And so begins the largest ever repair project on the boat

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Copyright welkin.no

Removed the old caulking with a oscillating multi tool, equipped with a Fein hooked cutter blade. I used a 3 and a 4 mm cutter.

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I cleaned up the last rests of caulking and dirt using a caulk removal tool from Teakdecking Systems.

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Fresh wood was exposed ion the sides of the seams with a multi tool sanding plate.

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As I have now lost my faith in Sikaflex and especially after another boat in my club had to redo his whole deck again because the Sikaflex did not go off, I decide to go for a polyurethane based caulk Teakdecking Systems SIS440 that does not require a primer.

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Before putting on the new caulking the grooves where cleaned with acetone on a microfiber cloth. This removed the last rest of gummy Sikaflex and removed also any wood fibers left in the there.

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Masking off along the seams  together with the next step saved me from sanding the whole deck.

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Finishing off with removing the excess caulk with a multi tool knife.

Sanding with 80 grit paper only in the odd places.